Shanghai may be growing explosively, and the Pudong district may be sinking slowly, but you can't say this city is without a plan. The officials responsible for Shanghai's jaw-dropping transformation from old-world port to futuristic behemoth have considered every square inch of the metro region—what it is today, and what it will look like tomorrow.

You can ponder Shanghai's future at the Urban Planning Center, a lofty, high-tech interpretive center positioned smack on the perimeter of People's Square. The five-story building's stature and prominent location reveal just how seriously Shanghai takes its planning mission. Don't be put off by the cheesy gift shop and tepid ground-floor exhibits. Ride the escalators to the third floor, and behold a mesmerizing, 1:2,000-scale, master-plan diorama of Shanghai as it's expected to look in 2020. From a catwalk on the floor above, you can gaze down upon this 6,500-square-foot urban canvas.

Next, weave through a series of smaller halls showcasing numerous transportation projects and suburban developments, from seemingly improbable blueprints for green space and self-sustaining eco-cities to extensive rail plans for 220 mph maglev trains.

Take a break and re-enter the present at People's Park, a beautifully-maintained oasis of greenery just beyond People's Square. As you stroll its many meandering paths, you won't be able to forget for a moment that you're in a city with big plans—you'll always be in sight of at least one of the city's fancifully futuristic buildings. Still, a true sense of tranquility prevails here, providing a great (and rare) opportunity to see locals in repose—perched on benches reading, chatting or simply contemplating the reflection of trees, building and sky in the park's almost unbelievably picturesque pond.

Next stop: a sample of Shanghai's trendsetting art and design scene. As you walk down Taikang Lu, you'll be sure that you've taken a wrong turn—the street is filled with vendors selling far-from-couture socks, mops and various parts of chickens. You'll soon see several narrow vertical billboards advertising galleries and boutiques, marking the entrance to what looks like an unpromising alley. But take a few steps and you'll find yourself on a pleasant narrow lane, lined with glassed-in boutiques, brick industrial-chic studio spaces and leafy outdoor courtyard cafés.

This is the Tianzifang "Intellectual Property Protection Experimental Park," one of several government-designated creative hotbeds in Shanghai. There's a distinct international flair here—Jooi (International Artist Factory, Lane 210, 2nd floor; tel. 21-6473-6193; www.jooi.com), for example, is a Hong Kong-founded, Danish-owned house wares and accessories boutique that blends Asian and Scandinavian design sensibilities, and Hari Rabu (Lane 210 #6; tel. 21-5465-1744) stocks lamps from Indonesia, Thailand and Vietnam.

When you're ready for a meal, you might think to head for the Bund, the glamorous milieu of scenemaker upstarts with fat expense accounts. But dumpling for dumpling, the nearby French Concession may just be Shanghai's best food neighbor-hood. This dignified warren of creeper-covered colonial-era mansions appears happily at odds with Shanghai's otherwise postmodern, skyscraping exuberance. You can saunter tree-lined lanes past smart boutiques, breaking for a meal at any of several expat favorites.

The neighborhood's culinary heart lies just east of the U.S. Consulate, where Taojiang Lu and Dongping Lu form a little crescent of memorable—and surprisingly affordable—eating. There's Pin Chuan, a refined but informal restaurant, set inside a graceful French Concession house. A huge menu packed with handy photos will help you decide how best to experience the satisfying burn of authentic Sichuan cuisine—think hot chilies and pink peppercorns.

Around the corner, Peruvian kitchen wizard Eduardo Vargas turns out pequeños—plates of fresh shellfish ceviche, hearty cod croquettes, and paper-thin beef carpaccio at Azul, a darkly seductive tapas lounge. Venture upstairs to the restaurant, Viva, if you're up for a more substantial sampling of Vargas's Nuevo Latino creations. An excellent wine list and potent sangria are available in both spots.