The 1,670-foot Taipei 101 towers over the Taipei basin, often piercing its lid of clouds. Officially it is the world's tallest inhabited building—a title it will hold until the Burj Dubai is completed in early 2009.

To reach 101, walk south about 15 minutes from the Taipei City Hall metro station.

A free shuttle bus runs between the tower and the station. On the way, you'll pass through the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi New Life Square, an orderly grid of ultra-modern malls and department stores. Several fine local restaurants have branches on the upper floors of building A9, and there's an endless buffet of cheaper eateries in the basements of most buildings.

Enter the tower through the shopping mall at its base. From there, the world's fastest elevators will speed you up to the enclosed 89th-floor observation deck. There is an outdoor observation area two floors above that.

Taipei 101 Observation Deck, tel. 2-8101-8899; tickets NT$350, additional NT$100 for outdoor observation deck; open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (last entry 9:15 p.m.); www.taipei-101.com.tw; Shin Kong Mitsukoshi New Life Square, stores open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Housed in an unassuming villa in the southeast corner of 228 Peace Park, the Taipei 2-28 Memorial Museum is a moving monument to one of the most emotive events in Taiwan's recent history. Starting on February 28, 1947, Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek's mainland Chinese army suppressed a series of increasingly violent Taiwanese protests—stamping Chiang's authority on the former Japanese colony. More than 20,000 are believed to have died. The ethnic faultline that became apparent in 1947 persists today in an often bitter division between the island's "Taiwanese" and "Mainland" populations and political parties. The background to the 228 incident also helps illuminate the island's recent history as an entity distinct from mainland China. Be sure to get the free English-language audio tour, because other English information is limited.

The park also hosts the grand neo-classical National Taiwan Museum, with exhibits related to Taiwan's flora and fauna and indigenous aboriginal population.

Exit the park at the south gate and turn right on Kaidagelan Boulevard to see the Presidential Palace, with its distinctive brick-red tower. You can visit the building. Passport and reservation may be required—see the Web site for details (www.president.gov.tw). The building also incorporates a small art gallery.

Taipei 2-28 Memorial Museum, open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday; NT$20; 228.culture.gov.tw

National Taiwan Museum, open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last admission, 4:30 p.m.), NT$20; www.ntm.gov.tw

A few minutes walk east of the 228 Peace Park is the Chinese Handicraft Mart, a government-established shop crammed with handicrafts, souvenirs, and objets d'art. The prices often aren't the cheapest in town—but everything is under one roof. You'll see ceramics, jewelry, paper lampshades, plastic laughing Buddhas, giant framed stag beetles and hand-sized spiders, garish t-shirts, imitation ivory (powdered fishbone and marble) door gods, cloisonné boxes, jade earrings, and an exhaustive selection of Taipei souvenir fridge magnets. The shop's shelves have been livened up in recent years by the addition of products from Taiwan's aboriginal minority. The vibrant but complementary colors of their jewelery and fabrics reveal a distinct culture.

Corner of Xuzhou Rd. and Zhongshan South Rd. Section 1; open daily 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; www.handicraft.org.tw

Steer a rented bicycle away from the bustle of the city and follow the peaceful paths alongside Taipei's three rivers. Couples can test their teamwork with a tandem. Free city maps available at metro stations show the locations of bicycle rental stations. Some are only open on weekends—call 2-2719-2025 for information.

Bike rental rates start from NT$15/hour. Non-resident foreigners normally have to pay a NT$2,000 deposit, although sometimes a photo ID will be accepted instead. Staff speak little or no English. Bring sun protection in summer.

Try cycling up the Xindian River to Treasure Hill (Bao Zang Yen). Once a squatters' village, it's transforming itself into an artists' community. A jumble of makeshift dwellings, some inhabited, some semi-derelict, encrusts the hillside, and views of surrounding greenery offer respite.