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Guides for the Business Traveler
Osaka (2007)

4 hours in Osaka (2007)

2007 Business Traveler 4-Hour Guide Sponsored by Korean Air. Crisscrossed by rivers and canals, Osaka has plenty of hometown culture and food, plus sights of unexpected charm and beauty. Andrew Bender takes us on an excursion.

Museum of Oriental Ceramics

It's a never-ending pot party at this museum on the island of Nakanoshima, in the middle of the Okawa River in the city center. The 3,000-piece-strong collection covers works dating back thousands of years, from Korea, China, Vietnam and, of course, Japan. Exhibits rotate, but on any given day, you might find the refined shapes of celadon vases from Korea's Koryo Dynasty (circa 12th century), Japanese Muromachi and Edo Period ceremonial teaware (1573–1868) that clearly inspired Japanese minimalism, and beautiful pieces for everyday use from 20th-century Mingei ("folk craft") movement potters like Shoji Hamada.

Spa World
Next, immerse yourself, literally, in another touchstone of Japanese culture: natural hot springs. A quick subway or taxi ride takes you to this gigantic bathing complex, which pumps its waters from deep below the city. It's hardly a typical rustic experience, though. Doff your duds, grab a towel and head to the gender-segregated tubs and saunas of the European Zone (with Mediterranean, Greek and, naturally, Finnish décor) or the Asian Zone (with entries from Bali to Persia and beyond). The zones switch off by gender daily. For a taste of Japan, try the rotemburo (outdoor bath). The settings redefine over-the-top, but it's all so good natured that it's hard to complain. You'll need a swimsuit (available for rental) for co-ed rooftop areas. 3-4-24 Ebisu Higashi, Naniwa-ku; tel. 81-6-6631-0001
Bunraku

Take in (at least part of) a performance of Osaka's signature performing art, bunraku puppetry, at the National Bunraku Theater. Two-and-a-half to four-foot puppets perform stories of bravery, intrigue and comic relief. Puppeteers dress in black from head to toe for invisibility, like ninjas, and coax incredible expression from the puppets' eyes, mouth, and movements. Chanters on a separate stage provide narration in multiple voices accompanied by the shamisen, a traditional three-stringed instrument that's plucked like a banjo. Performance dates and times vary, so check the schedule in advance. 1-12-10 Nihombashi, Chuo-ku; tel. 81-6-6212-2531

Doguya-Suji Arcade
Admit it: everywhere you've been in Japan, you've been impressed with those incredibly realistic plastic models of food in restaurant windows. This restaurant supply district is where locals go to buy them—they make great souvenirs for the kids. And nothing says "I love you" to your favorite foodie like pots and pans meant to last generations, famous knives with just as long a lifespan, and inventive kitchen gadgets that induce astonishment. Most shops close at 6 p.m.