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Guides for the Business Traveler
Los Angeles (2006)

4 hours in Los Angeles (2006)

Downtown L.A. is often overlooked by tourists, but there is plenty to occupy a first-time visitor, discovers Mark Caswell.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels
Start on the north side of downtown L.A. at the enormous Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, a modern 3,000-seat place of worship. Set in gardens with fountains and olive trees, the cathedral is the third-largest in the world and the first to be built in the U.S. for more than a quarter of a century. Free guided tours (1 p.m., Monday–Friday) are available, or you can wander quietly among the pews at your leisure (tel. 213-680-5200, www.olacathedral.org).
Walt Disney Concert Hall
Further towards the center of the business district at the top of Bunker Hill, the gleaming Walt Disney Concert Hall is a must-see for anyone with an interest in experimental architecture. The exterior is made entirely from stainless steel, while inside, its acoustically-renowned concert halls are home to the Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra. Visitors can take an hour-long tour of the building's nooks and crannies from $12, or have lunch in the cathedral-like surroundings of the Concert Hall Café (tour times vary; tel. 323-850-2000, www.wdch.laphil.com).
Museum of Contemporary Art
A short walk along Grand Avenue is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCA). One of two locations in downtown L.A. (the other is on North Central Avenue in the Little Tokyo district), the museum houses over 5,000 permanent pieces ranging from colorful pop art to photography by Diane Arbus. There are also temporary exhibitions, such as the drawings of German-born American painter and sculptor Eva Hesse, on view until October 23 (tel. 213-626-6222, www.moca.org).
Grand Central Market and Bradbury BuildingGrand Central Market and Bradbury Building
Los Angeles' Broadway used to be almost as famous for plays and musicals as its New York counterpart, but most of the theater halls now lie empty (although there are plans to restore the famous Palace and State Theaters). The street is still worth a visit, though, for the Grand Central Market, with its iconic neon signs—many of which date back to the early 1900s. Right across the street from the market is the century-old Bradbury Building, which was the location for some scenes in the futuristic thriller Blade Runner.
Pershing Square and the Biltmore Hotel
From the market, continue along Broadway and turn right onto 5th Street. On your left, Pershing Square is a modernist take on a city park, with concrete water viaducts and a minimal landscape—not to everyone's taste, but it serves as an escape from the busy city streets. The nearby Biltmore Hotel is an example of former L.A. grandeur, and housed the Oscars back in 1939—its commemorative hallway is adorned with photographs of Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra and Walt Disney.
L.A. Central Library and the Standard Hotel L.A. Central Library and the Standard Hotel
Further down 5th Street, the famous dome of the L.A. Central Library is visible. Inside, its muralled walls make a peaceful detour. For a taste of what L.A. is trying to encourage downtown, head to the Standard Hotel, with its instantly recognizable upside-down sign. On the rooftop, there is an ultra-funky bar and restaurant with panoramic views of the city, and a swimming pool for those needing respite from the strong California sunshine.