Madison Avenue, eat your heart out. In agency-rich Düsseldorf, Germany's media and fashion capital, legions of artists, filmmakers and advertising mavens work in the geometry-defying towers of this 37-acre waterfront wünderland. Schedule appointments within daring structures, such as the Roggendorf-Haus, its exterior crawling with colorful, big-palmed plastic humans, or Frank Gehry's shimmering "Neuer Zollhof" trio, done in fluid stainless steel, wavy white plaster and asymmetrical red brick.

Business eagles soar 566 feet to this glass-enclosed aerie spooled around the shaft of the Rhine telecommunications tower, the city's tallest structure and Media Harbor anchor. Cocktails, seasonal German cuisine and hourly panoramic sweeps of the Rhine Valley are served at this revolving 180-seat eatery, where vertiginous diners may prefer the bar's plush leather chairs to the steeply-pitched tableside windows, to avoid the potential upset of specialties like salmon with truffle purée. The event-capable Bistro Panorama and an open-air deck are just below, and although somewhat indistinct, the tower shaft becomes the world's largest digital clock at night.

Reservations recommended. Open daily 10 a.m.­–11:30 p.m. Moderately priced. Credit cards accepted. Stromstrasse 20; tel. 49-211-863-2000; www.rheinturm-restaurants-duesseldorf.de

From the Media Harbor, reach Düsseldorf's lively historic quarter via the Rhine Embankment Promenade (Rheinufer-promenade), the celebrated tree- and café-lined avenue that restored pedestrian riverside access by submerging a major traffic artery. Navigate the Altstadt's narrow cobblestone arcades to find bargain boutiques, old churches and the square half-mile of 260 inns and brewpubs known as "the world's largest bar."

Here, enjoying the uniquely brewed altbier (a regional brown ale) and butcher's platters slathered with mostert (mustard with grape cider) at home breweries, such as the 300-year-old Zum Schlüssel, are essentials. Finish at the people-watching and sunset mecca of Burgplatz, the riverside plaza voted one of Germany's most beautiful squares and home to Schlossturm castle and the Schiffahrt (Navigation) Museum within. www.duesseldorf.de (parts in English)

One of the world's swankiest thoroughfares, the "Kö" was so named in civic apology to King Wilhelm IV after citizens pelted him with horse manure. Today, this leafy boulevard, running along either side of a canal, is an international shopping destination on par with Paris and Milan.

From Armani to Prada, all the luxury suspects are here, with the Galeria Kaufhof department store, built in 1909 in the city's prevalent Art Nouveau style, an architectural highlight. If shopping is not in the (credit) cards, people-watch from a café terrace, view the impressive Triton monument, ice skate outdoors, or dine at eateries like the popular Victorian Restaurant. www.duesseldorf.de

Easily reached by tram or car (or bicycle along the Rheinuferpromenade), the charming Kaiserswerth suburb in the city's northern outskirts presents a living portrait of Düsseldorf's past, complete with gas-lit cobblestone streets and ancient ruins. Stroll along idyllic lanes where Florence Nightingale once walked as a student and track the ancient riverside remains of Kaiserpfalz castle.

Then head for the triumphant cuisine and ambience at annual three-star Michelin winner, Im Schiffchen. Since 1977, chef Jean-Claude Bourgeuil has created magic with his ever-changing seasonal French repertoire. Spring 2007 seductions include caviar and onion-cream pastry, rabbit consommé with cinnamon served as a cappuccino, and mango with Muscat wine cream sherbet—the only delight missing is the next visit.

Reservations required. Open Tuesday– Saturday, 7­–10:30 p.m. Expensive, and worth it. Credit cards accepted. Kaiserswerther Markt 9; tel. 49-211-401-050; www.im-schiffchen.com (German only)