|
Guides for the Business Traveler
Tel Aviv (2006)
4 hours in Tel Aviv (2006)
Elise Rana explores Tel Aviv, from the food stalls of Carmel market, to the nightlife of the old port area.
 | Azrieli Mall The cylinder, square and triangle of the three Azrieli buildings on Derech Petach Tikva Street make up the Middle East's largest mall, but don't be distracted by the shops—head for the observatory on the 49th floor where an audio system provides a soundtrack to the panoramic view. Here you can see the city's ambition has been realized in the spread of high-rise developments, performance spaces, museums and art centers, where a century ago there was little more than sand dunes. Beyond the sprawl lies a total contrast in the coastal cliffs of ancient Jaffa, and on a clear day, the city of Jerusalem. |  | Beth Hatefutsoth Museum To get under the skin of the city and learn something of its people, an understanding of the Jewish faith goes a long way. Take a bus or taxi north to the University campus in the suburb of Ramat Aviv, where the Beth Hatefutsoth Museum of Jewish Diaspora (www.bh.org.il; open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed Fridays and Saturdays) provides some enlightenment. A genealogical resource for Jews all over the world since opening in 1978, this innovative museum also gives non-Jews a useful grounding in the basics of Judaism. The museum's displays answer even the simplest questions about Jewish beliefs, customs and traditions, but perhaps the most interesting section follows the development history of displaced Jewish communities all over the world, from China to Chile. |  | Jaffa As the heat of the day rises, escape to the sea by taking a taxi to Jaffa. The ancient gateway to Jerusalem is now a quiet fishing port, but the narrow limestone streets are alive with Biblical legend. Occupied by Egyptians, Assyrians, Babylonians, Philistines, Romans and even the British during its lengthy history, the area has been something of a bohemian enclave since the '60s, as attested by the artistic metalwork and mosaics adorning house fronts. With old men playing backgammon on every corner, the unhurried atmosphere makes for perfect meandering, and you can stroll the flea market at leisure amid dusty antiques, Indian silk skirts, Chinese toys, Russian dolls, Turkish belly-dancing headdresses and countless other trinkets. Stop off at a juice bar to taste the oranges that made the place famous, or head to Ali Karawan on Yehuda Hayamit Street for what is widely considered to be the best hummus in the country. There's little in the way of signage outside this simple café, so just look for the lines—turnaround is fast and the food is well worth a five-minute wait. |  | Seafront and Shopping Central Tel Aviv can all be done on foot, so work off your feast with a stroll back towards town along the undulating shorefront walkway, which is at its most pleasant when bathed in late afternoon sunlight and freshened with a sea breeze. To maximize their sea views, most of the city's larger hotels are grouped behind the strip on Hayarkon, and the best shopping districts are also within walking distance. Walk past the exotic food stalls of Carmel market and you'll come to a crossroads—head straight across down Sheinkin Street for hip fashion boutiques or turn right down the pedestrianized Nahalat Binyamin for handmade arts and crafts; on Tuesdays and Fridays the street is taken over by more than 200 artisans. Stop and people-watch over a cup of coffee at one of the outdoor cafés that line Sheinkin and Dizengoff Street further up—it's Tel-Aviv's favorite way to spend the afternoon. |  | Bistro Carmela/Neve Tzedek near the Dolphinarium complex—especially if you're in town on a Friday when a circle of drummers, jugglers, fire-twirlers and other colorful types create a spectacle to welcome in the weekend. For dinner, the elegant Bistro Carmela just off Carmel market serves up excellent modern cuisine that combines European, Middle Eastern and Jewish influences. As Israel's self-proclaimed capital of finance and fun, Tel Aviv is a city that plays as hard as it works. If time is running short you should be aware that a night out here tends to start late and go on even later. To see where it could take you, head south to the attractive upscale area of Neve Tzedek, where the laidback bars along Lillienblum are currently the chicest places to be seen. The old port area, just a taxi ride north, is another nightlife hub of restaurants, bars and some of Tel Aviv's best nightclubs, including the hangar-like TLV. |
|
|
