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Guides for the Business Traveler
Mumbai (2006)
4 hours in Mumbai (2006)
From traditional markets, to airy modern-art galleries, India’s commercial hub is full of color and culture. Bharati Motwani roams among buzzing bazaars, colonial architecture and seaside promenades.
 | Chor and Zaveri Bazaars Nowhere is the lively spirit of Mumbai more evident than in these traditional places of commerce and co-mingling. For Chor Bazaar ("Thieves Market"), start on Mutton Street and make your way through a maze of narrow lanes packed with large mosques, rickety temples and intricately carved Gujarati-style houses. There are shops overflowing with items you don't need, but can't resist: antique clocks, phonographs, vintage books, statues, brass lamps and furniture from old Parsi and Kutchi homes. Don't visit on a Friday—most establishments are closed. Fifteen minutes away by car is Zaveri Bazaar, a century-old mecca for devotees of bling. The gold and diamonds are dazzling—and so is the parade of (mostly female) humanity that mills around the maze of lanes and jewelry workshops: Maharastrian women wearing glittering nose rings, Parsi princesses, gaudily made-up hijras (described as "eunuchs," but many are men who live as women), burqa-clad Muslim women and portly Gujarati jewelers. It's a fascinating place, but watch out for pickpockets. |  | Fort Area Now head south towards the Fort area, where an old British fort once stood. This is a great place to revel in the architecture that made Mumbai one of the finest Gothic cities in the world. Within a radius of 1.86 miles are scores of magnificent buildings representing Victorian, Venetian, Indo-Saracenic, Art Deco and even Assyrian styles. Don't miss viewing the Mint, dating from 1829, and the town hall that houses the Asiatic Society Library, a hushed world of priceless books and marble visages of Mumbai's founding fathers. Nearby are the Cathedral of St. Thomas and the Flora Fountain—the quintessential icon of Mumbai. Opposite the fountain is the neo-Gothic Elphinstone Building and the neoclassical British Bank. Across the street is the Readymoney Mansion, a confection of carved woodwork. At the end of the road is Mumbai's crowning masterpiece, the Victoria Terminus, an exuberant extravaganza of stately domes, spires and arches. |  | Jehangir Art Gallery Located at Kala Ghoda, also in the Fort area, is one of India's premier showcases for contemporary expression. With presentations three times weekly, you'll almost always be able to catch some event or activity. In fact, the entire neighborhood has assumed a distinctly bohemian air, thanks to the spontaneous exhibitions that often spill out onto the pavement. Pick up an unusual visual piece at the Samovar Café, a popular hangout for both artists and art aficionados. |  | Taj Mahal Palace & Tower Built in 1903 by pioneering industrialist JN Tata after he was supposedly turned away from a European hotel for being "a native," this magnificent structure may not be the epicenter of social swirl that it once was, but it's still worth a peek. Spread throughout the original wing and the newer extension (built in 1970) are 565 rooms and suites, all updated for the 21st-century with plasma-screen TVs, Internet access and other high-tech amenities. Fortunately, much of the original interiors remain intact and have been lovingly preserved, such as the grand central staircase and a series of ornate galleries. And for those who relish rubbing shoulders with the local elite, this is certainly the place to do it. Apollo Bunder, Colaba, tel. 91-22-6665-3355, www.tajhotels.com |  | Indigo and Leopold’s Indigo is a small, elegant candle-lit restaurant ensconced in an old mansion featuring Mediterranean cuisine—try the rawas, pan-grilled Indian salmon and goat-cheese ravioli. A meal for two should cost roughly $128–$192 and reservations are essential. For post-dinner drinks, go next door to Leopold's (tel. 91-22-2287-3362), which is the city's oldest Iranian restaurant. The clientele is international and eclectic—it's another great spot to people-watch. Indigo is located at 4 Mandalik Road, Colaba, tel. 91-22-5636-8999; open 12:30 p.m.–3 p.m., and 6:30 p.m.–1:30 a.m. |  | Marine Drive To carry the period ambience on to the end of the evening, take a spin in a horse and buggy along the Marine Drive promenade. Here you can take in the Mumbai city lights, the smell of the Arabian Sea and the boats that dock at the wharfs below the majestic Gateway of India. This is Mumbai's signature landmark, commemorating the visit of George V in 1911. On most evenings, the area is full of strolling couples and families enjoying the sea breeze. The best way to get around Mumbai is to hire a car with a driver to avoid the hassle of hunting down a cab and haggling over fares. Cars can be hired from hotels or from the India Tourism Development Corporation, tel. 91-11-2288-0992. An air-conditioned car with driver costs $21.35 for a half-day (four hours). |
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