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Guides for the Business Traveler
Kyiv (2006)
4 hours in Kyiv (2006)
Kyiv’s (also known as Kiev) profile was recently raised by its velvet Orange Revolution in November 2004, during which Ukrainians took to the streets for over a month in sub-zero temperatures, literally standing against the leftover Soviet regime in favor of democracy and an EU future. Amy Spurling takes in the sights of the city’s recent, as well as ancient, history.
 | Maidan Square (Maidan Nezhalezhnosti) This was the hub of the orange-wearing revolutionary crowds—see where the 500,000 stood. You'll know it by its golden globus atop a pillar. This is Kyiv central, connected to Khreschatyk—the main thoroughfare. On weekends, it's closed to traffic and you can promenade with Kyivians, watch tame street entertainments, shop, or stop for a coffee or beer. Around Christmas, hundreds of Santas and Snow Queens congregate for paid photo opportunities. (Sometimes this may include an owl.) |  | Taras Shevchenko House Museum Just off the Square on handily named T. Shevchenko Street, you will find this national figure's house at 8A (open Wednesday–Sunday 10 a.m.–6 p.m., with a negligible entrance fee). Shevchenko was a 19th-century poet, writer and painter, as well as a campaigner against tsarist oppression and slavery, and pro-elevation of the Ukrainian language. Part of his heroic status stems from his subsequent hard-labor punishment in Siberia for an entire decade. His house is sweet—wooden, in a small green garden with flagstones. It is run by equally sweet and interested old ladies and includes period drawings (some are Shevchenko's own) and furniture. |  | Sofieska Cathedral Walk back the way you came, then head left and up a steepish hill (Sofieska Street) to the Cathedral and its spacious photo-opportunity square (Sofieska Ploscha) at the top. The gleaming golden onion-domes, moss-green roofs and the beautiful bell tower are stunning in themselves. It's also worth paying the few cents to go inside, as this is Kyiv's oldest standing church, with frescoes dating from the 11th century. On the grounds, there is sometimes a man with flowing hair, playing heavenly music on an ancient Ukrainian lute-like instrument. |  | Andrievsky Descent (Andreivsky Uzviz) From Sofieska Square, head straight along Volodimirska, which leads into Andrievsky. You'll know you've arrived when you start to see rather unoriginal artworks lining the streets, as well as souvenir stalls. Some of the traditional lacquer-painted pots are a good buy; Soviet kitsch is also available as well as the more modern kind, like caviar fridge magnets. Tread carefully down the cobblestone street and you will pass various charming little theaters, modern-art galleries, more stalls and fuel stops. There is also an array of small, cozy eateries serving traditional cuisine with local knick-knack decoration. Try Ukrainian borscht, with its accompanying sweet rolls; a plate of steaming dumplings; or pickled vegetables with a shot of Ukrainian vodka if it's chilly. Ukrainian beers are also plentiful and quite drinkable. |  | The River Station (Richkovi Vokzal) If you fancy a light cruise, then veer right at the bottom of Andrievsky along Borychiv Tik, left down Borychiv Uzviz and cross the footbridge on your right to get to the River Station. Ferries leave every 20 minutes or so—just join a line and then pay about $4 for an hour's ride up and down the river. Drinks and snacks are available onboard, but you may want to avoid the boats playing disco music. You'll get a waterside view of the shore where you'll see the golden domes of the extensive Lavra monastery and the imposing silvery Mother of the Motherland rising above the trees. A typical example of statuesque Soviet realism, this stocky worker-woman brandishes a sword and shield. |
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