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Guides for the Business Traveler
Amsterdam (2006)
4 hours in Amsterdam (2006)
Not more than a ten-minutes’ walk from the center of Amsterdam, Mark Caswell loses himself in the Jordaan district, an area of quiet canals, peaceful cafés and absorbing museums.
 | The Houseboat Museum Many of Amsterdam's finest houseboats are moored along the quiet canals of the Jordaan district, so it seems only appropriate that this is also the area to dive into their history. The Hendrika Maria dates back to 1914, and was formerly a sail-propelled boat, transporting sand, gravel and coal across the city. It was converted into a houseboat in the '60s, and subsequently into a museum. The cargo area is now spacious living quarters, measuring 861 square feet, but the worker and his family would have had to cram into just a fraction of this. The original deckhouse is still intact, complete with its diminutive cupboard bed—barely enough space to swing a mouse, let alone a cat. Photographs, model boats and guidebooks plot the history of the houseboat through the decades. The Houseboat Museum is on Prinsengracht 296, tel. 31-20-42-70-750, www.houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11 a.m.–5 p.m., Tues to Sun (Mar. to Oct.), and Fri–Sun (Nov. to Feb.). Entry $3.84. |  | Hazenstraat From the Houseboat Museum, walk along Elandsgracht until you come to Hazenstraat on your right. The whole of the Jordaan district is littered with quirky antique shops, boutiques and dusty bric-a-brac stores, and no street typifies this more than Hazenstraat. Within 100 yards you'll find a funky hat shop, confusingly named Petsalon (www.petsalon.nl); Olivaria, a store dedicated to the world of olive oil; Cats and Things, a shop specializing in cat paraphernalia (www.catsandthings.nl); Kop & Schotel (bowls and dishes–no explanation needed there then); a handful of designer clothes and shoe shops; an English bookstore; and the workshop/gallery of local artist Joep Buijs (www.joepbuijs.nl). If you're not too weighed down with scratching posts and crockery by this point, turn right at the top of the street onto Lauriergracht and follow the canal back to Prinsengracht. |  | The Westerkerk Walk north along Prinsengracht past Hotel Pulitzer and you'll come to the Westerkerk. Literally meaning "Western church," it was opened in 1631 and is the largest Protestant church in the Netherlands. The bell tower is undergoing renovation, but visitors can still admire the Dutch Renaissance-style interior and the huge organ that was added in 1686. The Westerkerk's most famous "resident" is, or rather was, Rembrandt. The Dutch painter was buried here on October 8, 1669, but he could only afford to rent a grave, so 20 years later his remains were removed to make way for another body. In 1906, 300 years after his birth, a memorial plaque was erected inside the church. Westerkerk is on Prinsengracht 281, tel. 31-20-62-47-766, www.westerkerk.nl. Open Mon to Fri, 11 a.m.–3 p.m., Apr.–Sept. |  | Anne Frank House Just a few steps from the Westerkerk is undoubtedly the most famous house in Amsterdam from where Anne Frank wrote her diary, which has since been published in 60 languages. On July 6, 1942, fearing Nazi persecution, the Frank family took up residence in a secret rear annex of Otto Frank's jam-making factory. The family's furniture was taken away when the annex was discovered on August 4, 1944, but several reminders of the Franks' time in hiding have been preserved. A door is still disguised by a bookcase, and the walls remain decorated with postcards, posters and markings from the family's two years in self-imposed captivity. Excerpts from Anne's diary pepper the walls and steep staircases, and many make for sober reading—"The English radio says they're being gassed—I feel terribly upset." But the museum brings hope too—interactive sections educate today's generations about the dangers of discrimination. Anne Frank House is on Prinsengracht 267, tel. 31-20-55-67-105, www.annefrank.org. Open 9 a.m.–9 p.m. daily (Mar. 15 to Sept. 15), 9 a.m.–7 p.m. daily (Sept. 16 to Mar. 14). Entry $9.59. Note: The house is visited by more than 1.5 million people every year, and waits can be up to two hours during peak periods–the best time to visit is usually after 3 p.m. Or buy an evening ticket from your hotel concierge (valid after 5 p.m.), allowing you to bypass the lines. |  | The Pancake Bakery With cafés on practically every corner, no visitor is going to go hungry in Amsterdam. But for something a bit different, try the Pancake Bakery, a few minutes' walk from Anne Frank House. Located in the middle of three 17th-century warehouses, the café has been serving up a myriad of sweet and savory pancakes since the mid-'70s. The menu includes an international section, with choices such as the Indonesian pancake—a delicious and filling mixture of chicken, onions, mushrooms and satay sauce—or, for those with a sweet tooth, try the traditional Dutch variety with cherries, vanilla ice cream, cherry liqueur and whipped cream. The café also serves omelettes and poffertjes—the Dutch equivalent of the thicker American pancake, served with sugar and butter. Grab an outside table overlooking the canal and watch the world go by while you enjoy your snack. The Pancake Bakery is on Prinsengracht 191, tel. 31-20-62-51-333, www.pancake.nl. Open daily noon–9:30 p.m. Pancakes start from around $6.39. |  | Brouwersgracht If you've time for one last wander, cross back over the Prinsengracht and stroll past the whitewashed Noorderkerk (Northern church) to the Brouwersgracht. Here you will see some of the best examples of houseboats on the Jordaan, along with beautiful shuttered townhouses and still-functioning swing bridges. You'll feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of a capital city, but will be no more than a ten-minutes' walk from the center of Amsterdam. |
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