There was a time when business travelers dreaded getting sent to Kiev. Despite Ukraine's independence in 1991, Soviet-era stereotypes still held true: service was abysmal, it seemed there were no good restaurants, hotels were bad (yet severely overpriced), and the city felt dirty and forlorn.

Ukraine's service sector struggled to keep up with the country's accelerated business prospects. Almost overnight, Kiev found itself at the helm of an economic giant, trying to refit the nation's heavy industry (oil, gas, steel, and coal) as well as its agriculture and manufacturing sectors, while accommodating emerging industries in IT, pharmaceuticals, and banking. Meanwhile, foreign companies tried tapping into a market of 48 million Ukrainians.

Looking back, the economic hardship of the 1990s may have been a blessing in disguise. Unlike the glitzy and hurried refinishing seen in Russia's Moscow, Kiev's transformation has been slow and deliberate. Renovations are generally well-planned and tasteful, with special attention paid to authenticity. As a result, first-time visitors to Kiev are usually surprised, amazed at how beautiful and eclectic a place it is.

Kiev's freeform skyline is part of the city's charm. Varied layers of architecture relay a turbulent history that goes back some 1,200 years. Byzantine churches stand next to imposing Stalinist tower blocks, and the neo-classical palaces of Russia's imperial age offset the cool style of Kiev's pre-revolution Art Nouveau. The latest addition is the cluster of shiny, glass-sided office buildings that now mark the city center and define the burgeoning business sector.

Kiev's impressive greenery is what makes this odd jumble of old and new feel complete. A forest of ancient chestnut trees covers the steep banks of the Dnepr river, carpeting the streets and sidewalks with blossoms in the spring. The city's golden domes of its many Orthodox churches poke above the treetops, displaying Kiev's colors of green and gold, and white in winter. Slavic culture—both Ukrainian and Russian—was born from this spot. The struggle between these different groups has driven the city's setbacks and successes. Fortunately, the conflict never got too personal: Kiev has emerged a bilingual capital (Kyiv is the preferred Ukrainian transliteration, though Kiev is the more widely-accepted English form).

During the early years of transition, "byzness" sounded equally sordid in both Russian and Ukrainian, and "byznessmeny" was a nice way to say mobsters. Fortunately, that's all changed with Ukraine's latest generation of Western-trained MBAs and lawyers, who actually respect the law. An emerging business elite sees bribery as gauche and out of touch. Although the practice still persists in some sectors, respectable business is what's fashionable.

In Kiev, fashion matters a lot. To look the part of a serious businessperson is often more important than being it. A walk down the main street of Khreschatyk reveals well-dressed crowds showing off their pinstripes or sensible high heels. Today's Kievans aspire to own their own businesses, or at least to brandish good business credentials. They read self-help books with intensity, speak English fluently, and take night classes in business subjects. At noon, they order "byzness lanch"—a prix fixe menu offered by a number of cafés and restaurants in the city center.
Kiev is the catalyst behind the transformation of Ukraine's travel infrastructure. The high demands of business travelers have been answered in a show of vast improvements. The international airport at Boryspil was expanded to three terminals, and a glamorous business-class lounge added to the second level. Direct, business-class flights now service Kiev from almost every major hub in the European Union, and Delta flies direct to and from New York City. Ukraine's own international airline AeroSvit now offers regular flights to destinations like Bangkok, Beijing, and Dubai.

For the longest time, travelers felt the greatest frustration with Kiev's disparate hotel choices. Beyond a couple of fancy "mafia" hideouts, getting a room generally meant holing up in a range of substandard, Soviet-era hotels. Demand for good hotels versus a severely limited supply led to ridiculous prices for mediocre service. Thankfully, Kiev's hotel landscape improved after the opening of the Premier Palace. The "palace" exudes the grandiosity of the early 1900s, preserved in the original belle époque façade and spacious, personal suites, with elegant high-ceilings and lavish décor. This is the chosen address for Ukraine's celebrities and visiting politicians.

Many business travelers opt in favor of the Kiev Radisson, located in the heart of Kiev's ancient upper city. The hotel offers a more corporate atmosphere, with plush business suites that are tricked out with all the amenities you might want, including the city's very first free Wi-Fi hotspot. There's a small fitness center and spa in the basement, a fine Italian restaurant on the main floor, and a jazzy lobby bar where business happens around the clock.

The opening of Kiev's Hyatt Regency just three months ago set a new standard for the hotels in this city. The ultra-modern design, impeccable service, and the unbeatable location in the city center make the Hyatt the optimal choice for business travelers. These are the most business-friendly rooms around, and after a day of work, guests can unwind in the Hyatt's perfect urban spa, with its high-tech gym and gorgeous gold-tiled swimming pool. The hotel's dining options include the super fresh Grill Asia restaurant, and the intimate eighth-floor Bar on 8 with a panoramic view of the city.

Kiev's restaurant scene is far more advanced than its hotels, a feat inspired both by the recent entrepreneurial explosion and the huge demand for nice places to eat. Ukrainians love exotica, and that makes Kiev's culinary landscape susceptible to trends. For a while, Tex-Mex restaurants were ubiquitous, soon followed by sushi on every menu. Suddenly, posh wine bars seem to be in, and the city's elite have added wine connoisseur to their credentials.

Visitors on business are typically entertained in extravagant dining venues that come loaded with gimmicks, like waiters dressed up as Ukrainian Cossacks or Harley Davidson motorcycles hanging from the ceiling. Such theme restaurants are considered de rigueur and a way to impress doubtful foreigners, although the glitz isn't always conducive to serious discussion. For something more quiet and distinguished, try one of Kiev's new gourmet venues.

Wineport boasts the biggest and best wine cellar in all of Kiev, with a light bistro menu to match whatever it is in your glass. Annabelle is the best of Kiev's French cuisine and the first restaurant in Ukraine to receive a Michelin star. The food is exceptional—even the roasted pigeons (for dessert, try the marinated pears or the mango mousse). If you are eager for real Ukrainian food, but think it's all mundane, then make reservations at Lypsky Osobnyak. The talented chef serves Ukrainian country staples, like roast duck and potato pancakes, with the exquisite flourish of haute cuisine. It's also one of the quietest restaurants around.

The best dumplings, or varennyki (Ukraine's national dish) can be sampled at Kozak Mamai. Stuffed with potatoes, cabbage, meat, or even fruit, varennyki are delicious, but can become tiresome night after night. For something different, visit San Tori, catering to Kiev's sushi fetish. It's fresh, clean, and is bound to impress your Ukrainian colleagues.

Until recently, the largest space for public gatherings was on the outdoor expanse of Maidan Nezalezhnosti, or Independence Square, in the city center. It was here that an estimated one million Ukrainians gathered to protest the fraudulent presidential elections of 2004. Despite the ongoing political turmoil, the famous "Orange Revolution" was a turning point for Ukraine towards transparency and higher standards. The Eurovision song contest in 2005 and the upcoming European Football (soccer) Championships of 2012 have done wonders for the city's infrastructure. Kiev's conference and convention facilities have gradually improved, along with the amount of professional office space that's now available. Every upscale hotel advertises meeting facilities, but the Hyatt Regency offers the largest conference facilities in town with state-of-the-art technology for presentations, interpretation services, and a gigantic ballroom for special events.

Though Kiev is such a busy place, it pays to take time out to explore. No one should miss the Caves Monastery, a collection of thousand-year-old churches and underground crypts on the riverbank. A walk along Andriyivsky Uzviz takes you down the city's oldest street, now enclosed with art galleries, souvenir stands, and outdoor cafés. It's the perfect place to stop and ponder Kiev and all the people who pass by on their way to do "byzness."