There’s a moment in every vacation when I can literally feel the stress drain out of my body bit by bit—as if someone has pulled an internal plug and released everything that clenches my shoulders with concern, grips my brain with headaches, and aggravates my rapidly-advancing carpal tunnel. It tends to happen a few days into a trip. But on my recent visit to Uruguay, there was something that elicited a sigh of relief from me the moment I set foot on Uruguayan ground, and it didn’t let up—even weeks after I’d returned home.
    It could have had something to do with the historically laid-back feel of Colonia. Checking into the Sheraton Colonia Golf & Spa Resort was like walking into a dream, in which carefully-manicured golf greens added to the visual feast of aqua-colored pools leading to the river’s edge. The hotel celebrates this picturesque scene with floor-to-ceiling windows in the Lobby Bar, as well as in the hotel’s fitness center and Real Spa, which aid relaxation during a restorative treatment or post-game aperitif.  
    Just a short drive away, the Los Cerros de San Juan Vineyards & Winery is equally otherworldly—and that’s only partially because of the wines. Charming stone buildings and rolling hills make the perfect accompaniment to a lunch menu filled with fresh vegetables and grilled meats, all of which are deliciously paired with the venue’s best Chardonnay and Tannat.
    Visiting the World Heritage site of Colonia del Sacramento presents an ideal opportunity to get in touch with Colonia’s beginnings, with its mythical cobblestone streets that wind patrons through charming shops and eateries, bathing them in knowledge, courtesy of museums and historical landmarks, such as the lighthouse towering over the river. For an alternate view of the countryside, the Terrunio Country House, with a working dairy farm, horse-drawn carriage rides and charming, simple accommodations, shares its family-like atmosphere with guests.
    Within the fabulously-beachy culture of Punta del Este, South America’s answer to the Caribbean or Saint-Tropez, time just isn’t a factor. Afternoon tea at the artsy Hotel-Art & Spa Las Cumbres, with its hilltop panoramic view, amplifies the feeling of being miles away from all cares, as does watching and partaking in the fantastical sunset ceremony performed from artist Carlos Páez Vilaró’s home—Casapueblo.
    There are also the beaches themselves. Visiting during the high season will almost guarantee being joined by thousands in José Ignacio, where sun worshippers congregate at La Huella for seaside lunches in between catching more than a few rays. Then there’s Gorriti Island, for that truly “Gilligan’s Island” feel. Just a short boat ride off the shores of Punta, Gorriti, which plays host to many of the area’s yachts, is blessed with an unspoiled stretch of beach, where the Río de la Plata meets the Atlantic Ocean.
    Then there’s Montevideo, a locale adept at seamlessly blending ideals with a bustling city scene that’s more inviting than intimidating. Take a jaunt to the world-famous, family-operated Bouza Winery for an outstanding meal paired with equally superb wines, wander the Art Deco architecture of the La Rambla area, drop by the Solís Theater to catch a show, or meander through picturesque Ciudad Vieja (“Old City”).
    And while it may feel a bit too touristy for some, resulting from the cruise ships that tend to unleash guests at its port, the Mercado del Puerto is actually as popular with the locals as it is with foreigners. Inventive street vendors line the walkways leading into a central eating area. It’s not unlike a traditional food fair—with open-air stalls boasting huge grills cooking up meats, onions and peppers begging for consumption, making food more than just fuel—it’s a celebration.
    It can be hard to find the right place to really let go, disconnect and recharge… and if you’ve yet to find the right place, Uruguay might be the way. There’s just one problem: you might not want to come home again.

DETAILS

Sheraton Colonia Golf & Spa Resort
Continuación de la Rambla de Las Américas S/N, Colonia Del Sacramento, Uruguay; tel. 598-522-9000;
www.starwoodhotels.com